![]() ![]() Also for the models with wood butt caps I was always worried about it getting scratched up using extensions. Due to the chamfered edge, there will always be a little gap. None of their own extensions fit flush on the butt. (I have quite sweaty hands that I think contributed to this.) (That was on an SP2 butt that has the extended length wrap that was apparently very hard for them to get replacements for at the time) On my P3 it took me about 18 months to wear it down to the point it needed to be replaced, most real leather wraps will last longer that that but YMMV. Took me months to get Predator to repair it under warranty. Personally I liked this even though the surface is vinyl and not leather, but had one fail after a month where glue started coming out of the seam. They all come as standard with their "Lux" leather wrap. It looks silly sticking out so far, several after market ones I tried had much nicer looking inserts. ![]() Also cosmetic, but it always bugged me that they could not match the angle or height of the chamfer on the butt on their extension insert. Makes no difference to how it plays of course, just a personal thing. The paint can wear off and I disliked feeling the edges of these when handling the cue, especially the ones at the joint that I could feel through my fingers on a deep follow-through shot. The butt and joint have multiple Predator logos and markings that are etched into the surface then painted. Predator themselves explicitly state they do not provide refinishing services for P3 cues "because the metal butt cap shape does not allow sanding on a lathe", not sure if this also applies to the models with wooden butt caps. I have not come across anyone who can re-finish one with the matt finish. It looks cool but can easily wear off or get scratched over time. The matt finish is just a surface coating. Some models do come with Radial pins.Ī few other things to be aware of about the P3 model: The "Racer" versions have plain coated woods and a cheaper price but other than that I believe they are built the same way as standard non-Revo P3s. Hopefully QC is better now.įWIW A few months ago I decided to try out a regular Cobalt Blue "Racer" P3 (non-Revo edition) with a 12.9 and could not stand it, felt mushy and imprecise after playing with my Mezz Ignite for over a year. As they were sold separately I have no idea if it was the cue or the shaft to blame but I returned both. I briefly had a Predator "Willie 526" cue when they came out which had a Radial pin but the Revo shaft I had with it felt too loose, It went on way too easy and had a slight vibration when hitting off-center shots. The special edition Predator P43 had a dark "Balinit" coating on the pin, not sure if this made any difference to how well it works but it looked nice. I never had a problem with the joint loosening, although I had on a much older Dale Perry I had years ago, so there seems to be some level of variability. However I ended up moving to a Mezz Ignite 12.2 Wavy joint setup after trying both of them side by side. It was my first time playing with a soft tip and in combination with the CF shaft it really added something to my game. ![]() ![]() I really liked it and played with it for nearly two years. I had the original special edition P3 REVO GW with the 12.9 Revo shaft and Quick Release joint when it first came out with the factory Victory Soft tips. The Mélange has the Revo logo on the butt. For example in their current models they have the P3 Grey (CP PRE P3 REVO GRY CUS LL) that is not a Revo edition, and the P3 Mélange (CP PRE P3 REVO GLP LL) that is. They have the "R" logo for Revo on the butt in addition to the normal Predator markings and are sold as new with Revo shafts, but you can of course swap them out for wooden ones. I'm not sure if there are any internal construction differences, you could probably email Predator and ask as they don't seem to publish it on their website. Click to expand.Yes, I believe the Revo specific P3 models have slightly thinner butts, which I prefer. ![]()
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